Jan NorrisLongtime restaurateur Michael Moir pivots when one food destination doesn’t go as planned.
Michael Moir has been busy these past few weeks, opening not one but two food destinations in Jupiter.
Little Moir’s Sweet Fish, a cousin restaurant to Moir’s popular Little Moir’s Food Shack and Leftovers Cafe, opened May 18 in Chasewood Plaza.
Hibiscus Streatery, a fish market and commissary 2½ miles east of Sweet Fish near the railroad tracks on Hibiscus Street, opened two weeks ago after changing from a small market and 13-seat cafe.
There were several snags at Hibiscus and Sweet Fish, expected with any new projects, but these went down to the wire, Moir said.
“Funny story. We’ll laugh about it someday. All the chairs at Sweet Fish are rented. All the barstools, too. They’re wedding rentals,” he said, laughing at the last-minute work-around after his dining room furniture delivery was delayed by six weeks. “We just called up a rental company and got furniture.
“It’s all part of the journey. One thing after another. Either we wait to open or rent chairs and open now.”
Even with rented furniture, the opening was delayed a few days as the kitchen and servers trained and tightened up their performances.
How Hibiscus Streatery became a market
A parking deal that was pulled at the last minute by the town canceled the seating license for table service at Hibiscus Streatery. The small cafe that was planned as an answer to COVID shutdowns of bigger restaurants had to retract.
It’s now a commissary and retail market with prepared foods, produce, meats and fresh seafood sourced locally when possible.
“No seats,” Moir said. “It was all at the last minute. I was in shock.”
He thought about closing, but decided to regroup, saying he felt obligated to the workers he had hired for Hibiscus.
He needed to start another full-service restaurant to accommodate the floor staff and most of the chefs who were set to work at Hibiscus.
“I hadn’t planned it. I woke up early one morning and went looking for something to replace it.”
Finding a last-minute restaurant
He drove around looking at several places in Jupiter and West Palm Beach that his broker recommended. Then he happened on the former RJ Gators — more recently Rancho Chico — in the old Chasewood Plaza, a large strip mall on Indiantown Road at Central Boulevard. It’s anchored by a Publix Super Market.
“It stood open,” he said. “I drove by a couple times, looked in and then left.” He decided to take one more look. “I was staring in the window for half an hour. It was a huge space, though. I didn’t want 4,400 square feet.”
He worked with the landlord, cutting the space in half for Sweet Fish.
Huey Magoo’s is going in the other half, he said, referring to a fast-food Orlando chain serving chicken tenders in various forms.
“It’s been wild,” Moir said. “We’ve been working really hard.”
By we, Moir means partner Drew Shimkus and his restaurant crews.
“The chef, Juan Mendoza, is only 25, and is amazing. He worked at District Table in Stuart. Also started Leftovers. He’s got great skill, and he’s so composed. Very dialed in and organized. I love seeing new talent like his.”
Bringing new ideas
Also aboard is Mike Andrzejewski, a veteran chef in kitchens, consulting and helping bring together the chefs and kitchen staff.
“He’s helping them come up with concepts and following through execution. We put in a whole sushi program at Sweet Fish; he owned a sushi restaurant in Buffalo.”
Andrzejewski recently won the Culinary Clash competition in Lake Park.
“He’s bringing a different twist to the menus,” Moir said. The restaurateur appreciates having new ideas brought by his staff, making for collaborative menus.
“Mike is there (at Sweet Fish) today making kimchi octopus.”
The Sweet Fish menu will focus on seafood, but not in the tropical vein that Food Shack uses.
“We’re working on identities. Food Shack is like a surfside cafe. Fruit salsas are served with the fish — that’s a signature. Leftovers is more like a neighborhood restaurant. Sweet Fish is a modern tavern, built for the west end of Jupiter,” he said. “It’s more Americana.”
Attracting Jupiter Farms patrons
A blend of seafood and meats and some game such as alligator bites are aimed at the demographics of Jupiter Farms on the initial menu.
The restaurant, open for lunch and dinner six days — closed Sundays — seats 109 indoors and 16 outside. A full bar is central to the dining area. The interior design, featuring a 3D carved art piece over the bar, and a warm woods feel is different from the other eateries, Moir said.
“It looks really cool. We have raccoons and deer and otters.” It’s all a nod to the country side of Florida represented by the western communities.
“Jupiter Farms is a big part of our business,” Moir said. “There are a lot of families there. So we’ll have foods that appeal to that clientele, but seafood, too.”
Seafood offerings that will change with availability include lobster empanadas, sweet potato-crusted fish, and Southern-style fish and grits dished up with black-eyed peas and crispy okra. A shrimp and smoked pork ramen bowl has a garnish of chicharron.
Another American tavern staple, the baked meatloaf, comes with sticky maple brussels sprouts, jalapeno cheddar cornbread and slaw.
Sushi includes Chinese five-spice wahoo sashimi with a citrus jicama slaw, and a fried tuna basil roll served with a spicy melon salad.
Chef Juan’s BBQ fish sandwich comes with fried plantains, a barbecue sauce and brie.
The steaks will be served with yucca bravas and chimichurri — a twist on the Argentinian steakhouse favorite.
“We’re right beside a steakhouse,” he said, referring to Lewis Steakhouse a few doors down. He won’t compete with them, he said.
Seafood tapas of the day
Sweet Fish offers shareable plates such as seafood tapas, three different ones for $20 that represent whatever the chef has in mind that day.
“A tuna basil roll, maybe ceviche. You want to try it to find out,” he said.
For meat eaters, he plans brisket grilled cheese, variations of smoked pork possibly served in coconut taco shells, ramen, chicken and burgers.
All the desserts are different, too, including Stoner’s Delight: a Nutella and Reese’s peanut butter cup tart topped with a toasted homemade marshmallow.
Lessons from the market and Sweet Fish have been notable, Moir said. “We went nuts, took on the market and Sweet Fish together. We had a lot to learn about the market world. A lot of costing out product. Bar codes and other things I learned.”
But he credits his team and partner Shimkus for helping him bring the two projects to fruition.
What’s next?
“When I get frustrated, I think of our team. It’s such a great team in the kitchen and on the floor.”
Asked about his plans for other restaurants, Moir said: “My broker wants me to go north. We are talking about it. But maybe something south. I don’t know yet. We’ve got a great team. They want to grow.”
Moir has been operating restaurants since opening Little Moir’s Food Shack in 2001. A New York Times reviewer put it on the map in 2004, and its popularity took off and held steady from there. Maxi’s Lineup, a bar and music lounge that handles overflow and long waits, was added in 2010.
Leftovers Cafe opened in Abacoa in 2008.
But after Sweet Fish, Moir says maybe it’s time for him to slow down somewhat.
“I think I’m getting to the down side. I love what I do, but I’m pushing 60. Doing another restaurant, maybe, then I’ll go down the other side.”
